Shabbat in the Heights – Mishpucha-style

By Regan Lipes, Local Journalism Initiative Reporter

(AJNews) – On his 2018 Stronger Closer album, Benny Friedman’s catchy remix “My Shtetl’s Calling” extolls the inspiring ambiance of Crown Heights (CH), the headquarters of Chabad Lubavitch. CH was indeed calling, and over 500 Jews from around the globe answered that call, spending a moving and memorable Shabbat together beginning May 1.

This marked the 11th year that Shabbat in the Heights (SITH) offered family programming like their legendary annual CTeens and Young Professionals Shabbatot. What distinguishes SITH as unique is that it is an experience to be shared by singles, groups, couples, and families. This was their largest turnout yet, and attracted a sizeable contingent of attendees from Germany, and as far away as Hungary.

I had the privilege of taking my youngest son, Jacob, with me this year. Jacob is six, so everything is exciting and new to him. We arrived one day early to acclimate and sample the fine-dining culinary delights at Ren, a kosher, Brooklyn-based, Michelin-style restaurant I scoped out in gluttonous anticipation of our visit. The team at the Jewish Learning Institute (JLI) organized a host family for us, and we were welcomed into a comfortable and warm household full of children, grandchildren, and nachas.

On Friday, May 1, we began a packed schedule, and Jacob was delighted to find that a kosher pizzeria was open for breakfast. He marveled at the number of tzedakah boxes at the register to put his change in. We continued with a walking tour of Kingston Avenue led by a guide from @JewishBrooklynNYC. We visited a scribe’s shop; Jacob was able to touch a Torah scroll that was being re-koshered, handle the quill used for writing, and hear about all the care, learning, and dedication that goes into working on a Torah, tefillin, or mezuza parchment.

Our guide pointed out some fascinating street art along our stroll, highlighting the Hasidic core of CH. A colourful and vibrant mural on the side of a brick building, depicting the portrait of the Alter Rebbe, highlighted the unmistakably Jewish heartbeat of the neighbourhood. CH, as he emphasized, is not just a neighborhood where Jews live, but where Yiddishkeit thrives. While shopping, Jacob was delighted by the varieties of Jewish toys available and set his sights on a Lego replica of the 770 Eastern Parkway. As it was Erev Shabbat, there were flower stands on every corner, and the fragrance of fresh aromatic bouquets wafted dreamily along each city block. People rushed to-and-fro, and the atmosphere was alive with life and anticipation. Jacob and I made sure to do a full photo session in front of 770 Eastern Parkway, the address of the seventh Lubavitcher Rebbe, Rabbi Menachem Mendel Schneerson’s synagogue and the heartbeat of Chabad Lubavitch, before dropping off our shopping bags at our host family’s home and powering down our mobile devices for Shabbat. We, along with 500 other visitors converged upon the courtyard of 770.

This is when the marathon-of-eating began. Organizers laid out a full spread of finger foods and hors d’oeuvres to get everyone in the celebratory spirit and ready to welcome the Shabbos Queen. Opening remarks were delivered inside 770 by Rabbi Yitzchak Schochet, a Canadian-born celebrity rabbi based in England. It was a unique opportunity for women to come into the main part of the shul. Following some moving stories from Rabbi Schochet, a born orator, groups visited the Rebbe’s study, an auspicious and well-preserved room full of history and knowledge. When I think of the number of global high profile decision-makers and inspiring leaders, both Jews and non-Jews, who sought the Rebbe’s counsel within those walls, it is staggering to ponder the expanse of his influence.

We walked the short distance to Oholei Torah to light candles and bring in the radiance of Shabbat together. The two Edmonton families and Calgarian in attendance tagged along with Rabbi Ronnie Fine and Rebbetzin Simcha Fine of Montreal for some fast-paced questions and answers. This is when the children’s programming began, and Jacob ran off happily to make new friends with fun facilitated by CH local, Esty Kaplan. We were later hosted at the home of Rabbi Baruch Jacobson, and his wife Leah, the principal of the local girl’s school. Before leaving Oholei Torah, Esty happily announced: “You’re going to Mrs. Jacobson’s house for Shabbos dinner?  That’s amazing; she was my teacher!”  CH may be a bustling epicenter of Jewish life, but Benny Friedman might be right: “Everyone’s your friend in this cobblestone land. Everyone seems to know your Bubbe.”

This Shabbat coincided with Pesach Sheni, one month after Passover. This meant that matzoh brei was served along with gefilte fish, baked salmon, zesty Moroccan fish, and salads. Of course, this was followed by matzoh ball soup, and a main course of brisket, and all the fixings. When I say it was a marathon-of-eating, I meant it!

I was stunned that the twenty-minute walk back to our host family’s home elicited no complaints about tired feet, and Jacob was still full of questions and observations even after the shade of the shabbat lamp had been spun around. The next morning, stuffed with every kind of cake and breakfast sweet known to man, Jacob ran off to more children’s programming: board games, circle-times, and jungle gym play. Shacharit was robust and lively with Cantor Shmuly Hurwitz. Kiddish boasted seared ahi tuna, lox, sushi, salads, and a full bar. Jacob hardly noticed when I left to go listen to the morning’s lectures. Just to be clear: the Kiddish smorgasbord was only a prelude to a decadent lunch of individual challahs, cholent, brisket, grilled chicken, and roasted vegetables that was served in the Oholei Torah ballroom, the venue for many wedding receptions including that of Edmonton’s Rabbi Mendy Blachman and Rebbetzin Chaya Sarah Blachman.

As a procession moved to visit 1304 President Street, the site of the Rebbe’s home, Jacob ran ahead with his new friends as if he had already known them for ages. When we entered the Rebbe’s home, Jacob instantly grasped the importance of the place we were in. I was struck by his meaningful and insightful questions: what makes a place holy, how do prayers reach G-d, and why do we speak our prayers if G-d already knows what is in our hearts?

Many continued on to visit local celebrity personalities from the neighbourhood, Rabbi Manis Friedman, Benny Friedman’s father, and celebrated international journalist, newswoman, and producer Mrs. Molly Resnick among them. Jacob, after an afternoon full of children’s activities needed a shabbos schluf.  A Farbrengen was hosted for men and another for women, then it was back to Oholei Torah for Havdalah, more uplifting stories of unity and community, and even more eating. This also meant more dedicated children’s time.

As sushi appetizers, that seemed more like a full-blown main course, were served, Rabbi Aaron Spiro and Rebbetzin Amanda Spiro shared pictures to accompany their stories of spiritual discovery. They spoke candidly about their paths through travel and tumultuous trials of tribulation, and how their stories eventually became intertwined after meeting at a wedding in Montreal. They, through many twists of divine provenance, are now the shluchim (emissaries) in Trois-Rivieres, Quebec.

This was followed by a full buffet of fish tacos with every elaborate culinary garnish, piping hot pizzas, pasta, cannelloni, and an ice cream sundae station. Jacob was on cloud nine, and yet again we arrived back at our host family’s home after midnight. We switched on our mobile devices to check-in at home, and only then it hit me that even though our Shabbat had been busier than I could have ever imagined, the silence of not being bothered by the noise of the outside was refreshing and transformative; I wanted in that moment more than anything to share such an experience with my husband and all our children. Shabbat may have been a packed agenda, but the focus was always on the importance of the moment.

The next morning furnished more eating with a shakshouka egg station at the Jewish Children’s Museum. The museum was what Jacob had been waiting for, with three floors of immersive and interactive exhibitions for kids. The rooms and activities explained different Jewish values or the origins and meanings of holidays. There were games, displays, and so many things to touch and play with, all illuminating information about Jewish life and learning.  It may have been geared to a younger demographic, but plenty of adults were undeterred from indulging in the playfulness of the activities and interactive exhibits.

Our final official stop was to the Rebbe’s Ohel: his final resting place. Jacob and I sat together and after I wrote my own prayers to leave at the Rebbe’s grave, I helped Jacob write his own prayers. He then asked me why we write prayers to G-d and leave them at the Ohel. I explained to him that the prayers would be carried to Hashem on our behalf to ask for Divine blessings. He put money into the tzedakah box, and I showed him how to knock on the Ohel door three times before entering and helped him tear his prayer into five pieces.

Jacob and I took a small detour after this to a kosher spot in Times Square, Miznon, for some schnitzel and pita. Then, since he had most definitely grasped the importance of everything that 770 Eastern Parkway symbolizes, after returning to CH, Jacob got his Lego replica. For the final chapter of our stay, we took the recommendation of Rabbi Blachman and dined at a kosher CH hot spot, Meat.

SITH was a rich and inspiring experience, but unlike programming for young people, this was a set up with something to offer any age group. Edmonton families should consider next year’s Shabbaton as an illuminating adventure for the entire mishpuchah. JLI offers thought provoking and inquisitive courses throughout the year, and those Edmontonians interested should contact Rabbi Blachman; Calgarians should contact Chabad Lubavitch of Alberta. The 12th Shabbat in the Heights promises even more Jewish unity and inspirational Yiddishkeit, and G-d willing Rabbi Blachman will be able to accompany an even larger delegation of Edmonton families next year.